Iris is a beautiful flower with origins in Italy and Morocco, but only one species is used in fragrance – Iris Pallida. The flower itself actually carries little scent, it is the roots – ‘orris’ – that are full of fragrance.
Iris has long been associated with regality and opulence: it is an incredibly precious and expensive ingredient in perfumery, as well as boasting such bold and brightly-colored frilled petals. It’s not hard to realize its cultural reverence and significance throughout history, and why it is so coveted in the world of perfumery.
The scent of orris roots improves and strengthens with age, so once the flowers have been picked, they are often left to dry for up to six years! During the drying process, the roots naturally develop a soft and clean smell that is amplified once they are ground into a powder.
The roots are then distilled and a wax-like substance is left, known as orris butter. The butter is further processed to finally obtain iris absolute. A warm, woody, suede-like scent where undertones of chocolate and vanilla can be noted alongside the powdery, violet aroma.
Function:
Iris is a commonly used base note in perfume due to its fixative properties, which help to prolong the life of other fragrances in a blend. It imparts a unique and sophisticated aroma with its soft, earthy, powdery, and slightly floral scent. In perfumery, Iris is often paired with other notes such as violet, white musk, amber, and woody notes to enhance its powdery character.
What Does Iris Smell Like?
Iris has a powdery, floral, and slightly earthy scent profile with subtle undertones of spice or musk. The aroma of the iris root itself is complex and may be described as having notes of violet, green leaves, or even a hint of licorice. The final scent can vary depending on the species of iris, as well as the specific extraction method that is used.
Variations of Iris in Perfumery:
In the development of a perfume, two main types of iris are utilized: Orris root, derived from the Iris germanica, and Iris pallida root, derived from the Iris pallida. Of the two, Orris root is the most commonly used and considered to be the premium source of iris absolute.
What Fragrance Family is Iris in?
Iris is categorized as a floral fragrance and is primarily utilized as a base note to enhance floral, chypre, amber, and woody scents. However, its distinct and complex scent profile allows it to be associated with multiple fragrance families, depending on its usage.
For instance, when combined with fresh green notes and citrus, it can exhibit a crisp and clean character that is typically associated with aromatic or green fragrance families. When paired with musk, amber, and vanilla, it can convey a warm, sensual essence that is far more characteristic of the amber fragrance families.
